Visiting the World Championship Match in London
Last week, I was in London for business, and of course I paid a visit to the World Championship match between Magnus Carlsen and Fabiano Caruana.
It wasn't my first World Championship visit. In 2013, for instance, I had the opportunity to visit the Anand-Carlsen match in Chennai, India. As I wrote at the time in my blog post about that amazing event, my experience with World Championship matches hadn't been particularly lucky up until that point. And as I stood outside in front of the entrance of The College, Holborn, I realized that things might again take a turn for the worse: I didn't have a ticket, nor a press card, and the security guards told me I wasn't able to get in, not even into the lobby, if I didn't have either.
Photo: Arne Moll
The bouncers, who were friendly enough, told me that they were sorry but that the only option really was to buy a VIP ticket, which cost over 300 quid. Thanks, but no thanks! Fortunately for me, I knew a journalist who was already inside: Tarjei Svensen, the blogger and social media personality from Norway who is reporting on the match on his website Matt & Patt. He met me outside and, after talking to some people, he managed to get me a press accreditation. Of course I promised to pay his drinks that evening.
Once I was in, I immediately noticed how well-organized the event was. There was plenty of helpful staff and security (although my bag wasn't searched), and clear directions where to go. The turnout was huge, as the lack of available tickets had already implied.
There were several areas where large crowds had gathered to watch the game (Game 5) on big screens. In the press room, most seats were taken and journalists and reporters were standing in front of monitors to discuss the situation on the board. I got a desk next to GM Jonathan Speelman, who seemed to be one of the few grandmasters in the room. Perhaps the others were chilling in the VIP area?
One of the nicest areas was a beautiful room where people could analyze or play blitz. There was a fairly large shop with pretty good merchandise. (I bought a coffee mug. It seemed only fair.) The commentary area, where Judit Polgar, Hou Yifan and Anna Rudolf were doing the live show, was packed. (I could only peek inside).
Photo: Arne Moll
I walked towards the playing hall and noticed spectators were waiting in line as people were only allowed to enter on specific time slots. I read that this drew some criticism in the media, but I actually think it is a decent solution, especially since there were so many other things to do. Inside the dim-lit auditorium, all seats were indeed taken. I searched for familiar faces, but didn't see any. There were a few kids with their dads. I spotted a striking woman who looked like a celebrity, sitting in the VIP area, but I couldn't figure out who she was.
The players were seated behind a glass wall, as is normal (it was the case in Chennai as well). To me, it still makes an alienating impression, as if one is watching tigers in a zoo. Making photographs was not allowed, not even for more professional journalists than myself, to the obvious chagrin of those reporters who came to the event with the specific intention of making photos.
The Challenger had taken off his jacket, totally concentrated and staying behind the board all the time. The Champ, dressed in a slick grey suit, seemed a little more relaxed, walking around a bit and disappearing behind the curtains from time to time. When Black played 22...Kb5, boldly advancing his king towards the enemy camp, the audience briefly gasped. A few moves later, a typical frown from the 16th World Champion drew laughs from the crowd.
After the players had agreed to split the point, a press conference was held, chaired by Daniel King. It was accessible to the audience as well, though I estimate a large portion of the people inside the auditorium were journalists or camera crew.
Photo: Arne Moll
The players commented on the game, but were clearly not keen to discuss details. Then there was opportunity for journalists to ask questions. I always find it striking how innocuous these questions tend to be. Not that I had anything to add myself, of course. There was a predictable reference to the infamous 'video incident', but it didn't seem to bother the players half as much as it did the journalists. And then it was already over. The players disappeared; no autographs were given.
Afterwards, I stayed around for a bit. I chatted to some acquaintances in the press room, but most of them were obviously busy typing up their reports. I watched some of the blitz games played in the recreational area. The general level seemed pretty high.
Photo: Arne Moll
Then it was time to go. Since the venue is located in such a central part of town, it wasn't difficult to find a good restaurant nearby. Later, we went to another part of town. Our taxi driver didn't seem interested in the fact that the World Chess Championship match was currently taking place in London. Instead, he wanted to talk about Donald Trump and Theresa May.
Well, chess and politics are at least entirely separated these days. Let's count our blessings.
