How A Grandmaster Plays 1.e4

How A Grandmaster Plays 1.e4

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In this post I'll share with you a recent series of mine, showing you how I like to play 1.e4 in my Chess.com games!

Here is the series in video format (starting with 1.e4 e5): 

In these videos I mainly focus on how my recommendations in Crush Sub-1800s With 1.e4 measure up with my own practice. If you click on the top right (where it says 7/13), you should be able to see the next videos in the playlist, to play through them at your leisure. (If that doesn't work for you, click here for the full playlist). 

For those who prefer to read than watch, here's a summary of my recent preferences with 1.e4 in Chess.com this year (889 games total):

Vs. 1.e4 e5


I most often played the Ruy Lopez (2.Nf3 Nc6 3.Bb5) in my games, typically following up with main lines (6.Re1 in the Closed Spanish, 4.d3 vs. the Berlin). I believe it was Caruana who recently said that 4.d3 feels like a concession in the opening, because you are not putting pressure on Black's position, but that's also a testament to how reliable the main line Berlin variations (like the Berlin endgame) are for Black.

In any case, I played the Italian (2.Nf3 Nc6 3.Bc4) in nearly as many games, most often going for direct lines with 3...Bc5 4.c3 followed by d4 and 3...Nf6 4.d4. Both those lines will often transpose to my 'Crush Sub-1800s With 1.e4' recommendation with 3.d4 exd4 4.Bc4 (which I also played in some games).

As you'll see in the free sample of the course here, I also cover the alternative of 4...Bc5 5.Ng5 (as well as my main line of 5.c3), which is an option only available via. the Scotch Gambit move order. I was inspired to add this to the course after seeing Awonder Liang's great win vs. Levon Aronian in the recent US Championship:

Against the Petroff (2.Nf3 Nf6), I sometimes allowed the Stafford Gambit with 3.Nxe5 Nc6, as I've studied these variations and remember the refutation very easily (Nxc6/d3/Be2/c3/d4 in case you were wondering). I played nearly as many games with 3.d4, since virtually none of my opponents went for the best reply, 3...Nxe4. I also sometimes used the Bishop's Opening move order with 2.Bc4 to reach the Italian Game while avoiding the Petroff.

Vs. 1.e4 c5
Against the Sicilian, I most often played the Open Sicilian, getting pretty good positions out of the opening. I particularly varied my options against the Najdorf (2.Nf3 d6 3.d4 cxd4 4.Nxd4 Nf6 5.Nc3 a6), going for the classical 6.Be2 in 6 games, but playing 12 different moves in the other 12 games. 

The nice thing about the Be2 Open Sicilians is that while they are generally not the absolutely most critical try for an advantage, they are quite easy to play and understand, and the price of a mistake is lower than in most other Open Sicilian variations. This explains why Karpov was a big fan of these systems:


Overall, I played slightly more Anti-Sicilians than Open Sicilians, mostly going for the Alapin Sicilian with 2.c3 (or 2.Nf3 and only then 3.c3) when avoiding the Open Sicilian. This was my way of testing my recommendations in Crush Sub-1800s With 1.e4, and I was indeed able to get a pleasant advantage in all my games using the ideas I analyzed in the course. (You can get the full 'Crush Sub-1800s With 1.e4 course here). 

Vs. 1.e4 e6
Against the French, I most often went for the Tarrasch (2.d4 d5 3.Nd2), as it's a nice positional system where White has easy plans. Also, Black often struggles against it below the 2200 level, because it's not seen as often as 3.Nc3, 3.e5 or the Exchange at lower levels.

The following game of Tarrasch in his pet system is quite indicative of how Black can easily get into trouble if he plays the most obvious moves:



I was seriously considering the Tarrasch as a recommendation for my 1.e4 course, but ultimately decided on 3.e5, because of the frequent transposition to an Advance French from an Alapin Sicilian (such as 1.e4 c5 2.c3 e6 3.d4 d5 4.e5). True, one could also play 4.exd5 exd5 5.Nf3 in that position for a similar type of play to 3.Nd2 c5 4.exd5 exd5 in the French. 

I also played around with a lot of different options within the Burn French after 3.Nc3 Nf6 4.Bg5 dxe4 5.Nxe4 Be7 6.Bxf6 gxf6 7.Nf3 f5 8.Nc3 c5 (and some deviations before that), but ultimately Black is doing quite fine here with his bishop pair and central counterplay with ...c5. 

Vs. 1.e4 c6 & 1...d5

I played a lot of different systems against the Caro-Kann, but the most common one (by a margin of just one game!) was the Fantasy Variation with 2.d4 d5 3.f3, which was also my recommendation in 'Crush Sub-1800s With 1.e4'. Honestly, I have a lot of faith in the Fantasy as a practical weapon, even well above the 1800 level, as amateur players seem to really struggle when they can't just bring their light-squared bishop to f5 or g4. (Youtube chess fans may remember the GothamChess video with his loss to IM Ivan Schitco in this line). 

For those who are rated over 2000, a small tip I can offer is that, after 3...dxe4 4.fxe4 e5 5.Nf3 Bg4, instead of the most common 6.Bc4 (which I recommend in my course because most players below 1800 won't find 6...Nd7, and of those that do, most will miss the Qb3! threat after 7.c3), a small improvement is 6.c3!, intending Bd3 and 0-0 to consolidate the centre and leave the g4-bishop misplaced. Here's an instructive example from Caruana:
I also played a bunch of games with the Short Variation (3.e5 Bf5 4.Nf3) and the Panov Caro-Kann (3.exd5 cxd5 4.c4). The Panov is actually not a bad fit with the Alapin Sicilian, in that you often get IQP positions from both openings, but the Fantasy was way too effective against club/online players to pass up in the course. 

As for the Scandinavian (1...d5), I mostly played quite classically against it with 2.exd5 Qxd5 3.Nc3, but recently I started playing my old favourite of 3.Nf3 again, to see how my opponents would respond against my recommended setup of Be2/0-0/d4/c4/Nc3 from Crush Sub-1800s With 1.e4. Most of my opponents already went wrong with 3...Qd8 or 3...Qa5, playing it as if White had played Nc3 (a pattern I also point out in my 1.e4 course), but this immediately gives White a big advantage right out of the opening. 
Vs. 1.e4 Sidelines 
This was the least appealing part of the series to my audience, perhaps because people don't face Black's sidelines that often, or because it's often believed that you can just make up something over the board and be okay. Perhaps there's some truth in that, but it still pays to be ready for Black's sidelines and pick up the effectively 'free' points on offer when the opponent continues imprecisely.

For instance, I got to test my 1.e4 course recommendation in the Pirc with 1...d6 2.d4 Nf6 3.Nc3 g6 4.Bg5 Bg7 5.e5 in a couple of games. While my opponent (rated 2000) didn't blunder with 5...dxe5 6.dxe5 Qxd1 and played the more circumspect 6...Ng4, I still gained an advantage in both games. 

As for 1...g6, I played various setups but most often went for 2.d4 Bg7 3.Nf3, in order to have some flexibility with the pawn structure in case Black played a Hippo setup with ...b6. As for 3...d6, I played both the Geller System with 4.Bd3 and my Crush Sub-1800s With 1.e4 recommendation of 4.Bc4, which has also been played by Nakamura very successfully in blitz:


In that case, we see even FIDE 2700+ players getting crushed by the 1.e4 course recommendations  

Finally, against 1.e4 b6, I stayed loyal to my recommendation from my course, going for the d4/Bd3/Nc3/Nge2 setup. This is a great way to stop Black's typical counterplay of ...Bb4 or ...d5/...c5 from working, as I explain deeper in my course

Most of my Alekhine opponents didn't play 3...d6 after 1.e4 Nf6 2.e5 Nd5 3.d4, so there are no special conclusions here.

Thanks for reading this post and I will see you in the next one! 

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