Welcome to the first chess lesson! We will be learning about relative piece values and general opening rules/tips to help you play even better.
The official piece values are as follows:
pawn = 1 point
knight = bishop = 3 points
rook = 5 points
queen = 9 points
king = pRiCeLeSs
Explanation: These values are derived from the activity of each piece. Since a pawn can only move forward, it is considered as the lowest value piece. The knight has a short range, but it can jump over other pieces; the bishop has a long range, but is restricted to moving on only one color along a diagonal. Thus, the knight and bishop have roughly equal values of 3 points. The Rook is a speedy boi: it has a long range and can move horizontally and vertically, thus awarding itself a high value of 5 points. The Queen is like a Rook + Bishop hybrid; its value is likely determined by: 5 pts (rook) + 3 pts (bishop) + 1 bOnUs pt (bc she's cool) = 9 pts.
Next time, don't give away your queen (worth NINE points) for that measly pawn (worth only ONE point)! Remember which pieces are worth more; it will help you decide whether trading pieces is in your favor or not. Don't get cheated by your opponent!
Which knight is more active, and why? The one on a8 (in the corner) or the one in the center (e4)?
Answer: the e4 knight is more ACTIVE because it has 8 squares it can go to, whereas the a8 knight in the corner only has two options (b6 and c7).
Thus, activity is best described as the amount of squares that a piece can choose to go to. If a piece has lots of choices, it is active; if a piece is obstructed by other pieces or located in a corner, its activity is restricted. In chess, you want to have ACTIVE PIECES since they are better at attacking! No one wants to be passive and defend 24/7....right? Also, notice that a piece's mobility range increases as it gets closer to the center
Now we will lightly touch upon the idea of relative piece values...the point values that I introduced are not set in stone (like every other "rule" in this world! jk...or am I). They are flexible and depend on the position. In some cases, a knight can be worth more than a rook if the knight is super active/dominating while the rook is severely restricted in terms of mobility. In some extreme cases, an entire piece can be completely worthless if it is "trapped" or "out of play".
In the above position, material is equal (add up all the points if you want to check). You might be tempted to say that no one is winning! But look again: white's rook is trapped in the corner and cannot move. Also, white's knight on f1 is on the edge of the board (limited mobility). Compare this to black's position: black's rook is active and preventing the white king from escaping onto the c-file. Black's knight is in the center and has incredible mobility range (notice that Nd2 would be checkmate if white's knight were not guarding the square - we will talk more about mates in future lessons if you are lost right now).
Conclusion: black's Rook is technically worth more than white's, based on its superior mobility. Black's knight is worth more than white's, for the same reason. White's rook is so useless that we can completely ignore it and its inherent point value - even black's knight is better than the a1 rook.
Checkpoint question: what is a good way to increase the activity of your own piece?
OPENINGS
Hopefully by now, you have an idea of how important piece activity is. That's why you should try to control the center of the chess board right from the start. The beginning stage of a game is called the opening. Make the most of each move and fight for the center! Here are three "golden rules" for the opening that you should try your best to follow:
1) Pawn in the center
2) Develop pieces (by bringing them to control the center)
3) King safety (castling)
View the following example game to see these rules in action:
These rules, like all others, are subject to change. They're like glasses to help you see better, but you shouldn't rely on them 24/7. If your piece is attacked, address that threat first before continuing with the opening rules. However, under normal circumstances, the three golden rules should be followed closely to ensure a comfortable game. The more squares you control in the center, the less you give your opponent. Your pieces will be more active, allowing you to launch a deadly attack or win material, and eventually win the game.
Checkpoint question: What are the three golden rules? Must you always follow them?
I hope you have a better understanding of how the game works! If you have any questions, please comment below and I will promptly come to the rescue (not that you need rescuing or anything).
Welcome to the first chess lesson! We will be learning about relative piece values and general opening rules/tips to help you play even better.
The official piece values are as follows:
pawn = 1 point
knight = bishop = 3 points
rook = 5 points
queen = 9 points
king = pRiCeLeSs
Explanation: These values are derived from the activity of each piece. Since a pawn can only move forward, it is considered as the lowest value piece. The knight has a short range, but it can jump over other pieces; the bishop has a long range, but is restricted to moving on only one color along a diagonal. Thus, the knight and bishop have roughly equal values of 3 points. The Rook is a speedy boi: it has a long range and can move horizontally and vertically, thus awarding itself a high value of 5 points. The Queen is like a Rook + Bishop hybrid; its value is likely determined by: 5 pts (rook) + 3 pts (bishop) + 1 bOnUs pt (bc she's cool) = 9 pts.
Next time, don't give away your queen (worth NINE points) for that measly pawn (worth only ONE point)! Remember which pieces are worth more; it will help you decide whether trading pieces is in your favor or not. Don't get cheated by your opponent!
Which knight is more active, and why? The one on a8 (in the corner) or the one in the center (e4)?
Answer: the e4 knight is more ACTIVE because it has 8 squares it can go to, whereas the a8 knight in the corner only has two options (b6 and c7).
Thus, activity is best described as the amount of squares that a piece can choose to go to. If a piece has lots of choices, it is active; if a piece is obstructed by other pieces or located in a corner, its activity is restricted. In chess, you want to have ACTIVE PIECES since they are better at attacking! No one wants to be passive and defend 24/7....right? Also, notice that a piece's mobility range increases as it gets closer to the center
Now we will lightly touch upon the idea of relative piece values...the point values that I introduced are not set in stone (like every other "rule" in this world! jk...or am I). They are flexible and depend on the position. In some cases, a knight can be worth more than a rook if the knight is super active/dominating while the rook is severely restricted in terms of mobility. In some extreme cases, an entire piece can be completely worthless if it is "trapped" or "out of play".
In the above position, material is equal (add up all the points if you want to check). You might be tempted to say that no one is winning! But look again: white's rook is trapped in the corner and cannot move. Also, white's knight on f1 is on the edge of the board (limited mobility). Compare this to black's position: black's rook is active and preventing the white king from escaping onto the c-file. Black's knight is in the center and has incredible mobility range (notice that Nd2 would be checkmate if white's knight were not guarding the square - we will talk more about mates in future lessons if you are lost right now).
Conclusion: black's Rook is technically worth more than white's, based on its superior mobility. Black's knight is worth more than white's, for the same reason. White's rook is so useless that we can completely ignore it and its inherent point value - even black's knight is better than the a1 rook.
Checkpoint question: what is a good way to increase the activity of your own piece?
OPENINGS
Hopefully by now, you have an idea of how important piece activity is. That's why you should try to control the center of the chess board right from the start. The beginning stage of a game is called the opening. Make the most of each move and fight for the center! Here are three "golden rules" for the opening that you should try your best to follow:
1) Pawn in the center
2) Develop pieces (by bringing them to control the center)
3) King safety (castling)
View the following example game to see these rules in action:
These rules, like all others, are subject to change. They're like glasses to help you see better, but you shouldn't rely on them 24/7. If your piece is attacked, address that threat first before continuing with the opening rules. However, under normal circumstances, the three golden rules should be followed closely to ensure a comfortable game. The more squares you control in the center, the less you give your opponent. Your pieces will be more active, allowing you to launch a deadly attack or win material, and eventually win the game.
Checkpoint question: What are the three golden rules? Must you always follow them?
I hope you have a better understanding of how the game works! If you have any questions, please comment below and I will promptly come to the rescue (not that you need rescuing or anything).