felt, biaze (game table cloth) or leather?

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Schachmonkey
Yes and the wood version which is faster drying as it has less water. Similar product in the craft stores Aleenes tacky glue USA.
KineticPawn

Called the place I bought from and he says he uses 3m Super 77 Spray.  But I saw a cool infomercial called flex seal that looks even better. J/k I'm going to try the 3M super 77 on a plastic set later. 

KineticPawn

Ok, I got around to doing it. I went and used Super 77 spray can and put it on one of my butter Ultimate Chess Sets.  I initially tried an exacto knife but didn't like the results as much red-did with cuticle scissors which gave much better results and was much faster as well.

TheOneCalledMichael

It's satisfying feeling when you're done refelting with baize right? happy.png Looks good, do you feel any difference?

BH4WK

that looks great!

Pawnerai

Great job. They look straight from the factory. You've given me the confidence to do my sets now!

Powderdigit
Looks fantastic! Well done.👍
IpswichMatt

Looks like you've done a good job, well done!

GrandPatzerDave-taken

Nice job - the red really makes the butterball yellow pop!  More like BOOM!  ;-)

KineticPawn
TheOneCalledMichael wrote:

It's satisfying feeling when you're done refelting with baize right?  Looks good, do you feel any difference?

Feels smoother when testing it on wood but not like out of this world smoother. I think the biggest difference might be in its longevity and it's aesthetic quality.  A few observations and tips I would give. 1) A little cloth goes a long way. I'm shocked how little of the cloth I used. 2) Precut squares. It's just easier to pre-cut the fabric.  Doesn't have to be pretty just large enough for there to be overhang.  3) Work in small amounts of 4-6 pieces. When trying a large amount at the same time the spray can get tacky and stick to your hands if you inadvertently touch it with your fingers or knuckles when prssinf down the last pieces.  Smaller lots means its still not really tacky yet when you place pieces last pieces down. the spray gets tacky and it gets messy quick. Spray fabric, place pieces with pressure and the next one. 3) Be generous with spray. I wasn't with some early pieces and had to redo.  4) Most important tip is to use cuticle scissors. I initially tried using a razor and it didn't look as nearly as nice and uniformlyspherical,  was messier and took longer.  Cuticle scissors have a curve which works amazingly well and easy. I had pieces facing up with one half of the scissors resting against base of pieces like a guide rail.

 

Lastly thanks for the compliments gentlemen and thanks to for implanting this idea in my head. 

Westsailor32

When gluing, did you spray the pieces or the cloth (or both)?

KineticPawn
Westsailor32 wrote:

When gluing, did you spray the pieces or the cloth (or both)?

Only sprayed the cloth thoroughly.  I don't think spraying the pieces is necessary plus it would require wrapping the pieces in some type of protective material so as not to get adhesive spray on it.

GreyStoic

These are my 1970 Lardy sets that I have used a gorgeous medium grey mix of 80/20. All bases were hand sanded and cut patiently with Fiskar scissors with a deliberate 1mm overlap for more cushion. happy.png

TheOneCalledMichael

That Chavet set is intriguing, can you tell more about it? The horsies have eyes, I've never seen that.

KineticPawn

I really like the color cloth you used.  Could you explain how the 1mm overlap works to cushion?  What method did you use to do it and what type of glue did you use?  Could you possibly take a closer picture to see the fabric weave better?  I am not sure of the make up of the cloth I used but I do know the gentleman who sold me the off cut said he was worsted billiard cloth. 

 

I will have to disagree with you on the use of Fiskar scissors.  I feel that the natural curve of cuticle scissors  and shallow length of each cut is best for this type of work.  Once I used them I was able to do the set very quickly, including redoing about 6 pieces which had been done with a hobby knife because the results were just that much better and it was just that eas.  

GreyStoic
The color is a medium blue-grey with a mix of 80% wool and 20% nylon. I purchase ‘rail’ sizes from a billiard game store. Inexpensive since you certainly don’t need a lot for a few sets. The Lardy sets are vintage European Boxwood and so Elmer’s Wood Glue is fantastic to use. A fine paintbrush and covering the entire bottom except for the rim to allow for space for the glue. Pieces only and simply resting them on the strips of cloth overnight for good measure. Slice them into cubes and I actually use these geeky hobby glasses for magnified model work. They even have a LED light on top for a hands free experience. I did not use cuticle scissors for these sets due to the fact they are small and very shallow. They do not quite give me a perfect circle on larger bases. I have used them on tiny 2” King sets and they were ok. Fabric scissors or straight edge with thicker blades suit my style...my 1mm overlap. Meaning I will not cut a flank cut. That’s when you can simply guide the scissor against the piece and rotate it cleanly, almost like one peel for experienced cutters. My tiny overlap is a 1mm protruding around the piece. It’s incredibly tiny and I do it because I love how it looks. Visual interest and very very slight on the board. My hands are fairly steady (thank you video games), so larger scissors are cake. They just have to be really really sharp for effective work. Will share more close up pics tomorrow with natural light. :)
Pawnerai

@KineticPawn.

Are you sitting down? A YouTube channel called "Luxury Bombs" stole your CB&E posted photo of the dark burgundy re-felted v2 Butters and used it in their dubious, cringy video. It was so random. Hahaha. 

Check it out. @ 4:53.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vtb1XdbjfvQ

Source: Post #84 in this Topic Thread (above).

 

@GreyStoic I'm still loving that medium grey blue felt you used. It's a non-distracting, neutral color but it still has a stylish modern pop to it. Love!

KineticPawn

Lol, I guess I'm going to take that walk on the Brooklyn Bridge then. Super random to use my pictures. Should I sue for copyright infringement? wink.png

Pawnerai

Mess with them and demand they take your picture out of the video. They'll have to re-edit the video and re-upload. Losing all the views. Hah!

Uchebuike

While visiting my family at home, I decided to finally try some billiard cloth for refelting some chess pieces. Two years ago, I have already tried this with cheap, synthetic crafting felt from Amazon. Cutting and applying the felt went quite well, but the outcome wasn´t really satisfying for me.

So I (again) looked for some cloth and actually was under the impression that baize and billiard cloth was basically the same thing. And eventhough I have read through all refelting, felt, baize etc. threads on the forum, I noticed that there is a difference just after ordering some high quality billiard cloth. I went with Simonis 860 in blue-green, knowing that probably any cloth with a high enough woolcontent would suffice. But unfortunately, there are no billiard shops in my area, where I could buy some leftover cloth. Since I want to "recloth" 2-3 of my sets I ordered 2x 20x165cm Simonis 860. This will certainly be enough for a few more sets, but I had to place an order worth at least 10€. I paid 23€+shipping within Germany, which was acceptable for me. Ordering traditional baize from the UK would have cost me a total of around 35-40€ (depending on import tax) for only 20x61cm cloth, which wasn´t accaptable for me for the sets I intended to refelt. I will probably try this when refelting a set I deem worthy of it

Below you can see some pictures. I think the outcome looks quite decent. There is a day and night difference and gave some new life to the basic German Knight set I keep at my parents place, it basically looks like new to me (or even better since 99% of the new chesspieces today are shipped with mediocre felt at best from my experience, which isn´t even applied properly - see the pictures below). Dampening the old felt before removing it (again) really helped a lot (thanks again for the tip @IpswichMatt). The only tricky part was cutting the cloth as close to the piece as possible without fraying it. At the start I was using fabric scissors from IKEA, which were too bulky and not sharp enough. The result was some fraying. After switching to my old elementary school crafting scissors, which are a lot smaller, the results were "good" but still not perfect I think. Before reclothing two of the sets I use at my place I will definetly look for some sharp, but medium-sized/thin scissors, which should solve the fraying issue.