mould spots on wooden chess

Just use UV light from the sun or a lamp ,

Typically, shortwave ultraviolet light falls within 255nm through 280nm, destroys existing mold, and prevents future mold growth. The higher intensity of the UV light, the more effective the light will be at killing mold.

But even though the mold itself may be dead any staining will remain, yes?

Hi, I've had this problem myself and have treated it quite effectively, but it isn't easy. Firstly, I don't attempt to remove the spots, just hide them. I suspect that removal might do more harm than good. However, I hide the spots in a way that deprives the mould of oxygen, light and moisture so the spots probably die by themselves eventually. I essentially do what would be done to restore expensive damaged artwork. I use the small pots of oil paint that modellers use and mix colours until I find an exact match for the area around the black spots. Then I test it on a small piece of wood and check it after it has been waxed and polished on the separate piece of wood until I can hold the two side by side in the same light and can't see the difference. Then I use that mix of oil paint very thin on the brush to cover the spot fading in the edges little by little for several coats until the spot is no longer visible. If there is a prominent grain structure around the spot you need to mix both the light and dark shades of the grain and blend it across the spot, you need to use very fine brushes and it takes a level of skill, so it helps if you have some experience painting or are at least are manually dexterous with good eye for colour. I find it is better to use matt oil paint to match the colour and then match the texture using the same finish used on the pieces, possibly just wax polish or perhaps a mixture of varnish, thinner and boiled linseed oil. Again, you test all this on small pieces of wood, (I use Ice Lolly sticks) until you get it perfect before doing it on the chess pieces. I've used this method to restore mould spots and cracks and the main issue is that sometimes you find that you get a perfect match in one light, but not in a different type of artificial light, but I find you get the most consistent results by using nice bright daylight, but not direct sunlight. So save this type of project for summer. That way you can get results that nobody could spot if they didn't know it was there and weren't looking hard for it. Sometimes I forget which pieces it was and have a hard time finding it. Key thing is to test everything on bits of scrap wood until you are confident. If you happen to have any spare unwanted or broken chess pieces you could also experiment on them first until you gain confidence.

Hi, I've had this problem myself and have treated it quite effectively, but it isn't easy. Firstly, I don't attempt to remove the spots, just hide them. I suspect that removal might do more harm than good. However, I hide the spots in a way that deprives the mould of oxygen, light and moisture so the spots probably die by themselves eventually. I essentially do what would be done to restore expensive damaged artwork. I use the small pots of oil paint that modellers use and mix colours until I find an exact match for the area around the black spots. Then I test it on a small piece of wood and check it after it has been waxed and polished on the separate piece of wood until I can hold the two side by side in the same light and can't see the difference. Then I use that mix of oil paint very thin on the brush to cover the spot fading in the edges little by little for several coats until the spot is no longer visible. If there is a prominent grain structure around the spot you need to mix both the light and dark shades of the grain and blend it across the spot, you need to use very fine brushes and it takes a level of skill, so it helps if you have some experience painting or are at least are manually dexterous with good eye for colour. I find it is better to use matt oil paint to match the colour and then match the texture using the same finish used on the pieces, possibly just wax polish or perhaps a mixture of varnish, thinner and boiled linseed oil. Again, you test all this on small pieces of wood, (I use Ice Lolly sticks) until you get it perfect before doing it on the chess pieces. I've used this method to restore mould spots and cracks and the main issue is that sometimes you find that you get a perfect match in one light, but not in a different type of artificial light, but I find you get the most consistent results by using nice bright daylight, but not direct sunlight. So save this type of project for summer. That way you can get results that nobody could spot if they didn't know it was there and weren't looking hard for it. Sometimes I forget which pieces it was and have a hard time finding it. Key thing is to test everything on bits of scrap wood until you are confident. If you happen to have any spare unwanted or broken chess pieces you could also experiment on espaço invisível pequeno them first until you gain confidence.

Hi, I've had this problem myself and have treated it quite effectively, but it isn't easy. Firstly, I don't attempt to remove the spots, just hide them. I suspect that removal might do more harm than good. However, I hide the spots in a way that deprives the mould of oxygen, light and moisture so the spots probably die by themselves eventually. I essentially do what would be done to restore expensive damaged artwork. I use the small pots of oil paint that modellers use and mix colours until I find an exact match for the area around the black spots. Then I test it on a small piece of wood and check it after it has been waxed and polished on the separate piece of wood until I can hold the two side by side in the same light and can't see the difference. Then I use that mix of oil paint very thin on the brush to cover the spot fading in the edges little by little for several coats until the spot is no longer visible. If there is a prominent grain structure around the spot you need to mix both the light and dark shades of the grain and blend it across the spot, you need to use very fine brushes and it takes a level of skill, so it helps if you have some experience painting or are at least are manually dexterous with good eye for colour. I find it is better to use matt oil paint to match the colour and then match the texture using the same finish used on the pieces, possibly just wax polish or perhaps a mixture of varnish, thinner and boiled linseed oil. Again, you test all this on small pieces of wood, (I use Ice Lolly sticks) until you get it perfect before doing it on the chess pieces. I've used this method to restore mould spots and cracks, and the main issue is that sometimes you find that you get a perfect match in one light, but not in a different type of artificial light. However, I find you get the most consistent results by using nice bright daylight, but not direct sunlight. It's similar to how an automatic cat feeder provides consistency in feeding times, regardless of the environment, ensuring your pet gets regular meals no matter the lighting or time of day. So save this type of project for summer. That way you can get results that nobody could spot if they didn't know it was there and weren't looking hard for it. Sometimes I forget which pieces it was and have a hard time finding it. The key thing is to test everything on bits of scrap wood until you are confident. If you happen to have any spare unwanted or broken chess pieces you could also experiment on them first until you gain confidence.