What's the advantage of an end grain chess board

I'm most likely to gift one of my boards to my grandson and am looking at a nice replacement.

2 to 2.25 square size.....Just wondering if the end grain boards have any real advantages,with regards to design integrity or whatever.....

Thanks in advance

I saw a recent video where a builder of a custom 2 sided board(you guys probably saw it too) said the end grain takes the Tight Bond glue better.I kinda' assumed it would be slightly better structurally....No biggie

End grain wood is often used for flooring in high traffic applications, such as museums and public spaces. There is even a street in Cuba made out of end grain blocks! End grain wood handles scratches and cuts in a self-healing manner, and absorbs glue or finish well. Once sealed they are just about impermeable. End grain wood is cut in thicker pieces, because the strands will separate (crack) in thinner cuts.it’s why MTM boards are so darn thick. For chessboards, however, not many of the other traits matter much, so —- it’s for aesthetic reasons only.

Thanks for the info...Appreciated 

I don't purport to be especially knowledgeable on this topic, but according to the following article, it appears to me that an "edge" grain board (i.e., the edge grain is exposed as the playing surface) would be the most desirable for a chess board.  The article says an edge-grain board is the least susceptible to warping and cracking...

https://www.henneydesigns.com/blog/what-is-the-best-wood-grain-for-a-cutting-board

although the article appears to contradict itself, where in the third sentence of the last paragraph it says..."...the edge of the board is the strongest part of the board...", and in the same paragraph a few sentences later it says "End grain is by far the strongest..."  

Upon examination of several of my solid wood chess boards (by Drueke, ColoradoWoodWorker, etc.), the playing surface is clearly the exposed edge-grain or face-grain of the wood, and not the end-grain.

more on the subject of wood grain...

https://www.google.com/search?q=what+is+end+grain+wood&tbm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&fir=_y-9g3e9dGVAdM%252C_-u99uaU8ZxUFM%252C_&vet=1&usg=AI4_-kQtc6a7MvBe1xqD2Dn4dcGxO08GzQ&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjM4aTRrt7uAhUjIDQIHS_pDs4Q_h16BAgUEAE

@RussBell, the vast majority of wood boards are edge (Long or face) grain. It is regarded by most as more attractive for decorative purposes, and more resistant to cracking and checking than end grain boards. Think of such lovely woods as tiger or Birdseye maple, or good walnut or rosewood or any quartersawn lumber. It would be a crime to use them for end grain and lose the figuring. Of my 40 or so boards, only two are end grain, and they are both mtmwood.com boards.

That is essentially what I reported from the article I cited.  However, all of the boards of mine which I examined had face-grain exposed squares as well.  For example, edge-grain for the dark squares and face-grain for the light squares, etc.  This apparently to add some aesthetic diversity to the playing surface.  

@RussBell,  Edge, long, and face grain are all terms for the same thing. End grain is when you can see the RINGS of the tree. I know the terms are confusing. If you look closely at my two boards, you'll see what I mean. 

https://www.woodcuttingboards.com/news/end-grain-vs-edge-grain-do-you-know-the-difference.aspx

https://www.brooklynbutcherblocks.com/blogs/news/end-grain-vs-edge-grain-or-face-grain-or-long-grain

No. they are not terms for the same thing.  They are terms for different things. Else there would not be three different terms to describe wood grain.  Each of these "grains" are oriented and cut perpendicular to the other two.  See the photo in the article link I posted above.

If you had bothered to look at the second link I posted, you'll see you are clearly wrong. Edge, long, and face grain are interchangeable terms for the same thing. I quote from the article:

But before we do, let's address a common question... what's long grain?  We use this term instead of edge grain or face grain.  For what we're making, it doesn't make much difference and more importantly we find that edge and end just sound and look too similar for people quickly browsing the web or explaining it in person.  That's why we've adopted the term Long Grain.

Okay, so what's the deal?  End Grain is wherever you can see the tree rings.  The other sides, that's Long Grain.  The conventional wisdom is that End Grain is better for your knife's edge and Long Grain is more economical

Why?  Thick of the wood fibers that make up wood like bristles on a brush.  On Long Grain, it's like the brush is lying left to right, and you're chopping those fibers in half.  On End Grain, you're actually cutting between the wood fibers, keeping the board sharper longer and making it easier to clean and thus more sanitary.  That's all definitely true howeverI'd like to throw you a few situations where the answer, you'll find, really depends on your usage.

But hey, these guys only deal with the stuff for a living, so what do they know?

"Long" is not one of the conventional grains.  The three grains are edge, face, end.  They are distinct.  You are using non-standard terminology and then telling me that I am wrong for not agreeing with you.  I'm not going to pursue this nonsensical debate further.

@RussBell, trees are round. They only have two growth modes — up and out. We cut trees into boards. Strictly speaking, the wide side of a board is the face, and the narrow side of the board is the edge. The grain is the same. Let’s not go into the other major cut, which is quartersawn, at a 45 degree angle across the length of the grain. Don’t talk to me about non-standard terminology. I spent 27 years working in lumber and hardware sales.

Very interesting stuff and thanks for all the info......In post #9 do I see a crack in the top board/left side? No biggie...Just curious.....Also,of the 40 boards you own "Mac"(quite impressive,btw) do you see cracks developing over time? Not a concern of mine, as I have in room humidifiers in winter and am almost always between 45-55% .

Also,just a curiosity.

Thanks

Just thinking out loud here.....Since there is pressure between the squares of a board,due to being glued in place(not to mention a different type of wood butted up next to each square) and then the subtle expansion of the woods,as humidity changes.....Can I assume this could attribute to subtle cracks in boards too?

Maybe that's one reason why mfgrs give a lifetime warrantee on pieces,but only a year on boards.....Hmm?