Defense with little theory against e4?

Hi.
For 2 years I have been playing the French defense, but when I play in tournaments my advesarios are very prepared and they know a lot of theory.

I have little time to study and I like to dedicate it to study the middle game or finals.

I have tried the Scandinavian but I do not like it.
The philidor catches my attention.

Can you recommend a defense against e4 with few forced lines?

St. Georges 1...a6. 

modern defence  is the best looking at statistics

The Owen: 1...b6

Hi @Finalito, I'm not sure if any of these are what you are looking for, but I hope they help: http://chesswinning.com/10-best-chess-openings/

Thank you very much for your advice. I like the French defense or play e5 but I'm afraid to study so much theory. The objective is to look for an opening where if I do not hit the best move, they do not destroy me. where there are several good plays and not just one

You are asking for two different things.  Do you want an open that has little theory, or one that has few forcing variations?  The two are not necessarily the same.  For instance, 1…a6 followed with 2…b5 has very little theory, but things can become very sharp, especially if White continues with an Austrian attack set-up with f4, Nf3 and Kingside aggression ahead.  On the flip side, the Open Spanish has reams and reams of theory, but most of it is not forcing (ie, forgetting theory doesn’t lead to an instant loss the way it does in the Dragon).

Assuming you want something simple, little theory and little risk of meeting people with openings memorized to the nth degree, you may want to look at the Qe5 Scandinavian and/or the Rubinstein French.  These are just two possibilities

Try the Caro-Kann.  I don't memorize the main variations past about the first six moves and while that may give a White player with deeper knowledge an edge, it is not much of an edge because I understand the ideas behind the opening.  After 1...c6 2...d5 to contest the center, you are trying to develop your "Bad Bishop" from c8 to f5 or g4 so it won't be blocked in when you play ...e6 later.  You'll trade that Bad B for a B or N if forced or play ...h6 (or even ...h5) to provide a hole to hide from an Nf3 then Nh4 attack.

Meanwhile if White makes moves like e4, then Nc3, go ahead and play ...d5xe4: the d5 square can often become a great N-Outpost after ...Nf6 then ...Nd5.  Your other N develops to d7, usually very soon after ...Bf5 or ,,,Bg4.  It becomes a strong support, along with your f8-B for a Queen-side P attack beginning with ...c5 or ...b6.  The threat of moving your Q to c7 or b6 supports a Q-side attack.  If White spends too many resources defending c5, you can attack with ...f6 in the Advance Variation and that d7-N is important again.

With those sets of moves, there's not much White can do to prevent you reaching a playable middlegame and you have a lot of freedom in choosing the order of moves.

Note that the Slav Defense and, to some extent, White's London System (with the mirror-image squares) share the same basic setup as the Caro-Kann: pawns on c6, d5, e6, B on f5 or g4, N's on f6 and d7.

I played the C-K once but switched to the Qd8 Scandinavian due to unpleasant lines like the Tal Advance variation. Other variations e.g the Bayonet are also quite sharp. However, if you are OK with these kind of defensive openings, then I think C-K is a fine opening.

I've also tried the Modern Defence due to its reasonable scores for Black. However, I've lost too many times due to trouble on the kingside e.g I try to win a pawn, but I end up giving up the base of my pawn chain and give my opponent plenty of tactics with his bishop and knight, even after castling. Although it is a resilient opening, remember to strike in the centre at some point, and don't ever plan on compromising that foothold in the center!

 tal gambit  will you stop playing sicilian too 

My pet move against e4 is the counter intuitive or anti-aggressive g6 (the Modern Defence, I prefer to call it the rat). Largely based on the philosophy of non-engagement in the opening…because you are not directly confronting the enemy, there are few forcing lines in the opening…therefore very little theory. The standard opening moves are g6, B-g7, d6. It’s important to over-protect the e5 square to keep white out of your face early. It takes awhile to learn how to play it properly as you are usually attacked early but it is a sound defence. It is more about schematic thinking, piece placement and pattern recognition.  

great advice you are giving me.
The modern and pirc finish in similar positions and I like them.
but black ends up in a little passive at first and with little space.

The Scandinavian I have tried and the truth is that it is very good, but white playing well puts you in trouble as I have seen.

I have been recommended to play e5, playing the petrov or defense two horses in which maybe there is something more theory but there are no forced plays in which if you do not succeed you lose a little later.
I do not know, I'm a mess

I hear these comments all the time about not playing the modern…’passive and not much space’…I would argue that it is not passive, but a counter-attacking type of system. Counter attacks tend to be more successful than the initial attack. I find it a very creative system where one can just play chess without being boged down in mind numbing theory. The key to playing to it, for me anyway, is to overprotect e5, if you don’t you can be overrun early. There is no perfect opening system of play. I think Tony Miles said the object of the opening is to get yourself into positions you like to play. I suppose I’m biased towards it because I play it all the time, both as black and white. But it is a sound way to approach the opening. It does take awhile to get the hang of it because it is such a different way to open the game but once you get the hang of it it can be a rewarding way to play the opening.

 I recommend the Philidor Defense.  It is very simple, and you do not have to remember a lot of theories.  You just have to understand a few things about the resulting pawn structure and don't play silly moves like Nc6 because you want to move your pawn there. You can either trade your pawn at e5 for d4 pawn if you want to and try a central break later or keep the pawn to "hold" your centre and attack at the queenside.  If you want to study the Philidor you can read this book:http://shop.chessbase.com/en/products/the_fighting_philidor

 forget theory just keep blundering make sure that you must have one less blunder than your opponent did. 

yess
In the end I decided to do that. Make mistakes and learn.
And play 1. e4, e5.
Surely it has a lot of theory but I like the positions that are given.