1. Nf3 c5.
If White insists on playing a London setup, then 1. Nf3 c5 2. c3 b6 3. d4 Bb7 4. Bf4 Nf6 5. e3 g6 is an excellent double fianchetto for Black.
It is simpler to learn a proper refutation of the Englund, there are several available.
1. Nf3 c5.
If White insists on playing a London setup, then 1. Nf3 c5 2. c3 b6 3. d4 Bb7 4. Bf4 Nf6 5. e3 g6 is an excellent double fianchetto for Black.
It is simpler to learn a proper refutation of the Englund, there are several available.
I had learned how to refute the Englund through GothamChess, it's just that now my problem is how to win with that should I get dragged through that kind of setup...
Thanks for the homework!
I had learned how to refute the Englund through GothamChess, it's just that now my problem is how to win with that should I get dragged through that kind of setup...
Thanks for the homework!
I'm a London/Colle player 90% of the time, but anytime the chance is given me to play the Englund Gambit, I take it. Just make sure you play 3. f4 4. Nf3 rather than 3. Nf3
If you were playing against me with this move order: 1.Nf3 2.d4 3.Bf4
This is not the Reti, which is 1.Nf3 d5 2.c4. Calling 1.Nf3 the Reti is one of the biggest misconceptions in the entire world of chess.
This is just a London via 1.Nf3. But playing this way (with Nf3 before Bf4) is more inflexible and closes the door to many useful ideas associated with playing 2.Bf4 before 3.Nf3 in the London, for example the early Qf3 move in response to ...b6 which has become quite popular, f3-g4-h4 pawn storms in response to ...Bg4, Nc3 transposition to Jobava at the right moment, etc. Plus there is this annoying line which is the reason most modern London players have switched to playing Bf4 before Nf3:
That said, if you were just going to play 2.Nf3 then 3.Bf4 anyway vs. everything then there isn't really any downside to playing 1.Nf3 first. But keep in mind with 1.Nf3 that you are a little less flexible than you would be if you had started 1.d4 and 2.Bf4
Huh... I haven't seen a lot of Qb6 players at my level, usually the play is the Kingside at e5 and e4 with either the knight or pawn via making sacrifices and then opening up the e file and then storm through that way.
There's also the intent of c5 after Bf4 and then c4 that stops me placing Bd3, opting for Be2 that is more cramped in my ranks should I need to get them to attack the king...
I saw in the Chess Analysis that the b pawn needs to be alive for a closed position, didn't know that after short castles (O-O) then a transposition to mid-game needs the Queenside to be played out if the Black Queen crashes through by gobbling up the a - c Pawns, that I usually let my pawns get gobbled up by the Queen is a slow but big mistake on my part...
Great to know! Thanks!
If you were playing against me with this move order: 1.Nf3 2.d4 3.Bf4
I just hated playing against the Englund Gambit with d4 e5...
Does it still have the same plans as someone playing a proper London throughout the game?
And what would you play against me as the black pieces?