How to draw in a king pawn endgame

I was losing bu luckily, I manged to reach the correct square in time and stalemate.

Hope this helps.

Check out this #chess game: Yyloh vs issau - https://www.chess.com/live/game/71130860029

When you play the wrong move, you may lose the endgame.

That was what happened

It wasn't until 47 hxg6 that White finally threw away the forced win after throwing away much easier forced wins on moves 37 and 46.  Black's moves may not have been what a computer sees as best (it likes to delay an inevitable mate as long as it can) but they were moves designed to give the opponent chances to make errors (hoping that inevitable becomes evitable).

how to draw? Opposition of the kings (kings stand facing each other with one square gap as buffer) or simply standing in the promotion square and shuffling back and forth IF it is an edge pawn ('a' pawn or 'h' pawn)

how to make it so that it shows what move I made (like the best, diamond, and so on)

diamond is not a type of move

as for best, you need the analysis

Zyphery1,  White's 8th move was a blatantly losing blunder as Black playing Kd3 (instead of d3) would win easily (Black moves to the second rank on the file White does not move to and then Black's king is able to escort the pawn to the queening square).  For that matter, White's 2nd and 5th moves were also losing blunders, albeit not so blatant.  Instead of backing up three squares from the pawn White should sidestep to maintain opposition and the draw.

Fun fact: opposition does not matter in this position. For example look at the first diagram after black's third move. 4. Kd3 or Kc3 or Ke3 are all draws. Opposition does not play a role.

(It plays later, when we reach the back rank, but that is another matter). 

Opposition does not matter on move 4.  As already noted, it is critical on move 5.  The given 5 Kd2 loses to 5 ... Kd4 (6 Ke2 Kc3 7 Kd1 Kd3 8 Kc1 Ke2 9 Kc2 d4 10 any d3 11 any d2 12 any d1=Q).

Kd2 obviously loses, right. I did not dispute that at all.

However, "it is critical on move 5" is just wrong. That position (after black's 4th move) isn't about opposition either. Put the white king from d3 to e3. Now black has the opposition, but it does not matter, Kd3 draws.

The White King moved to d3 on move 4.  It cannot pass and stay on d3 on move 5.  The only move White has to draw is to take the opposition with Ke3.  Now if White had played 4 Ke3 (instead of 4 Kd3) then 5 Kd3 would hold, but I've seen OTB games where 1900 players were lackadaisical about the opposition with the opposing pawns moving from the third rank to the fourth rank to the fifth rank and then they lost because they remained lackadaisical about the opposition when the pawn moved to the sixth rank.  When teaching people about K+P endgames it is safest to emphasize the opposition from the start to avoid them playing losing moves like 10 Ke1 (which was avoided in example 1) and 11 Kc1 (a losing move that was played in example 1 and would have been brutally punished by 11 ... Ke2, 12 any d2, 13 any d1=Q) and example 1's losing moves of 5 Kd2 and 8 Kd1.

I don't think that you understand what I wanted to say. What I wanted to say is this: yes, it is true that 5. Ke3 is the only move that draws. It is also true that Ke3 is opposition. But it is not true that Ke3 draws because of opposition. If you change that position so that black has opposition, it is still a draw.

It does not matter, but it bothers me a bit that people want to see opposition is every pawn endgame, whether it is there or not.

In endgames with only Kings and Pawns the opposition can be critical in many positions (specifically on moves 2, 5, 8 and 11 in the given example).  The reason it was critical on those moves is because those were the moves where Black was threatening to advance the King a rank further than the Pawn.  In the second example White gave up the opposition multiple times and it was irrelevant (with h pawns or a pawns the only thing you must do to defend is either have the defending King on/next to the queening square or have the opposing king in front of the pawn while your king is on one of the last two squares two files from the queening square - such as White Kc1, Black Ka2, Pa4).  In an endgame with White Kh1, Pa3, Pc3 and Black Kb5 the opposition does not matter (when Black attacks one pawn then advance the other one square and when Black moves back to the b file in front of the pawns advance the other so that they are on the same rank - otherwise the White king comes over whenever it can unless White already has a win simply by advancing one of the pawns).

In the endgame of K+P vs K when the defending King is already one square in front of the pawn the opposition is critical in many positions (for both sides) and it is easier to emphasize it.  White's 2 Kd3, 5 Kd2 and 8 Kd1 were blunders because they gave Black the opportunity to get the opposition by advancing to the d file with Black's king a rank further advanced than Black's pawn. 2 Ke3, 5 Ke2 and 8 Ke1 would also have been losing moves if Black advanced the King on the e file.  The reason White needed to get the opposition with 2 Ke4, 5 Ke3 and 8 Ke2 was because the opposition prevents Black from advancing the king (2 Kc4, 5 Kc3 and 8 Kc2 would have failed White miserably because Black would be free to advance the King).  If White had played 2 Ke3 then Black's 2 ... Ke5 would have the opposition but would not have the King farther advanced than the pawn and White would be able to hold (after 3 Kd3 Black has to back up a rank and allow 4 Kd4).

5 Ke3 gets the opposition and is the only move that draws.  The reason is because in that position getting the opposition is the only move that prevents the advance of the Black King.  If the advance of the Black King can be prevented without the opposition (such as in my a3/c3 vs Kb5 example) then the opposition is often not otherwise critical (sometimes it is, but not always).

White's 11 Kc1 allowed Black the opportunity to play 11 ... Ke2 (12 any d2, 13 any d1=Q) and White could have stopped that with Ke1 to get the opposition (preventing the advance of Black's King).  After Black played d3 it was finally critical for White to always be able to keep the opposition when Black's King moves to the third rank and the listed 10 Kd1 was White's only drawing move (the game would have been lost after losing the opposition with 10 Ke1?? Ke3 11 Kd1 d2 12 Kc2 Ke2).

For specific endgame of K defending against K+P in the middle six files then it is possible to have a simple priority sequence of:

1 take the pawn if you can

2 move to the square directly in front of the pawn if you can (this can be the most complicated step if you are some distance away).  These two priorities will be enough to reach one of three positions:  the pawn (or the piece it just promoted to) is captured; the pawn safely promotes; or the pawn is defended by one king and blocked by the other.  At that point priorities three and four come into play.

3 if you are already directly in front of the pawn and cannot take it then back up one square straight back (in many positions you can still hold by backing up one square diagonally but that is not always true - you can always hold by moving one square straight back)

4 if you are two squares in front of the pawn and cannot move to the square directly in front of the pawn then the opposing king is beside the pawn and you need to take the opposition by moving to the square two ranks directly in front of the opposing king

When priority 2 (above) has not been met then you may be in one of the more complicated positions below:

If the opposing King is one rank in front of its Pawn and two ranks from the queening square then the endgame is lost unless the pawn can be captured (barring blunders by the player with K+P), and if the opposing King is more than one rank in front of its Pawn then the endgame is lost unless the Pawn can be captured (or the K+P player blunders).  If the opposing King is one rank in front of its Pawn and more than two ranks from the queening square then getting the opposition can still hold the position as long as the pawn is not so far advanced that it is uncatchable.

So opposition is important in some positions, therefore it is worth stuffing it into some other positions where it does not apply. I don't agree with that at all. But okay, if it works for you in teaching, that's good.

Also note from the starting position if it is blacks turn, an he advances his King to either c or e6, White takes opposition, drawing the game.