Simple Rules

I'm keep going up and down in the 700 range and finding it difficult to pinpoint what I'm actually doing wrong since every game is so dynamic. Some simple rules of thumb I've been implementing that have made a big difference is looking for forks & skewers, pawn storming the opposite side of castling, getting my rooks active in open or semi-open files, etc. But I have this sinking suspicion that I just needs 2 or 3 more of these "ah-ha" tips. But since I don't know what I don't know, I'm not sure what these things would even be. This level seems to be a mixed bag of inconsistencies for myself and my opponents. This level is very unorthodox and if you make (2) or more mistakes people can REALLY capitalize at this rating. That's just my take on it, but I know the higher rated people will probably roll their eyes at this...

Nice

Me too

‘This level (…) if you make 2 or more mistakes’.

Could it be exactly that? I have been working at level 400 lately and 8 hanging pieces in one side are no exception. So if you make a mistake yourself that is not the end of the world. Around level 700 that is different indeed and that will stay: one serious mistake often decides the game. So that’s to learn between 700 and 1100: really learn to avoid those mistakes. How? Play, analyse, play. Find your mistakes, catagorize them. That will help.

More practical: in your last lost games you castled late. That’s asking for trouble (unless you have a solid plan).

Focusing on one (or a few) things and then switching focus once that original thing becomes ingrained in your play is a common method of improvement for many chess beginners. Maybe they start by focusing on doing a "blunder check" before they move and try to avoid hanging pieces. Once they do this proficiently without much conscious thought, then they may try focusing on opening principles, then maybe on piece development, or particular tactical patterns, or whatever else they feel like they need to place emphasis on during their games.

The only thing in your list above I'd critique is the opposite-sides castling idea. This is a risky idea as usually players will both castle Kingside in games. In situations where both sides castle to opposite flanks of the chess board, certain concepts come into play involving pawn storms and fast attacks. Here are some videos I made which might help explain things better for you.

The second video is about why pawn moves in front of your King tend to cause weaknesses. The first video is specifically about opposite sides castling:

I've checked some of your games, there are some things there. Here is a game where you are black:

After 14. exf6 you played gxf6 in 0 seconds, probably a premove. It loses a full rook. As it happens, there are much better moves (like Rxf3). Simple rule: don't play without thinking.

With 19. O-O white loses a piece. Just take the piece and play on. Instead, you resigned, which is just simply unbelievable. Simple rule: don't resign.

for sure climbing from 700-800 is a hard thing to do, i face that up and down too.
things that finally make me surpass this obstacles is changing my thinking approach.
from just seeing current board condition and make a move/plan based on current board condition.
change it with thinking approach that always try to imagine/expecting the enemy move/plan,

then make a move/plan that could take advantage enemy move/plan.

if im correct, this reactionary thinking approach is called as hope chess by NM Dan Neisman.

another thing that help me climb elo is after get a losing game, i always make a conclusion about what things that make me lose my game and write it in a notebook.

if i cant make a conclusion, then i just write down my blunder in the notebook.

then i will try get solution based on what i got in the notebook, especially problem/mistake that frequently occur.

Thanks for all the help.

@magipi I have no idea why I resigned that game. I typically don't do that. Thats more of a one off scenario thats not representative of my over all games. More of an exception.

I don't care what anyone says there are some real sharks lurking in the 700 range.

looked at your games, you play e6 alot, which is passive and i would recommend either learning it well (you dont play it well at all rn) or go with a more open game like e5 or d5 or c5

and dont just move pieces and pawns multiple times in the opening, develop your pieces and keep track of threats, then when thats done you should improve your position more

morphy won so many of his games just because he developed and improved his position while his oppoments were fooling around. take note of that

Okay @Sea_Turtle note taken. Thanks.

h

Hi! I'm a chess teacher, chess book author, and chess YouTuber based in California.

Analyzing your chess games is a great way to get better. 

 

Feel free to send me some of your chess games. I'll analyze the games for FREE  on my YouTube chess livestream:

 

In general, I livestream three times a week on Monday evenings around 9:30pm, Wednesdays around 7:30pm, and Fridays around 1pm, Pacific Standard Time.  You can ask me questions in real time.

I look forward to analyzing at least one of your chess games. 

 

 

I can teach you EXACTLY how to think during the game (opening, middlegame and endgame). Your chess understanding will never be the same and you will improve a lot. I charge $10/h, but if you can’t afford too many lessons, don’t worry. I can teach you a lot in an hour. Here to help if you are interested.

If you want to study by yourself, read ‘Logical Chess’. It is really instructive book. You have it on youtube as well: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0eTB7oHeRgM&list=PLUrgfsyInqNa1S4i8DsGJwzx1Uhn2AqlT

Oh this looks like a great series. Thanks for sharing.

Okay I'm almost at 800

get ready to face accelerated london system that people at 800 elo used to play

Okay, good to know. I'll start studying how to recognize and beat it.