How do you find a good move in calm positions where there are no "obvious" moves to play?

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Verbeena
I've played a slow OTB tournament game recently and got this quiet position after the opening phase. All my pieces are developed and there is no tension in the position, except between the c & d pawn so there are no tactics to calculate. As far as my chess knowledge goes, this is how you find the moves to make in a quiet position:
  • Look for weaknesses in your opponents camp and build an attack against it - there are absolutely no weaknesses in whites position as far as i can detect.
  • Improve your worst placed pieces - all my pieces are on good squares. To keep moving them would be just shuffling around without any purpose, wasting time.
  • Look for pawn breaks - this is the only thing that was left to do. I came up with a few candidate moves but the move i choose to play was practically by random since i didn't know how to determine which pawn move was better than the other. 

What am i missing in my thought process to find proper moves to play in quiet positions like this?

 

ArtNJ

A fourth category of moves would be semi-useful moves that return the move to your opponent, so you see what he does.  Waiting moves, in other words.  Here, other than rook moves, the only real position changer white has that may make sense is e4.  Assuming we as black conclude that d5 is not helpful now or with preparation, we wait, and make waiting moves that will help prepare for white's e4 or are otherwise potentially useful.  

I let stockfish run a while and it likes r(f) to either e8 or c8, and a6.  Why not r(f)d8 -- maybe re8 is an attempt to prepare d5, which right now leads to cxd?

Anyway, I think this is the general idea.  You don't always have to be pushing your agenda.  In some positions, that is a good way to lose.  Beginners make useless moves like a6 h6 way too often -- beginners have a problem overusing waiting moves, but here, waiting is a good idea.

Nerwal

Black already got itself in a bit of a trouble for no good reason. With less space and no easy, active plan, Black stands already slightly worse at least in practice. I would recommend to be principled and play 8... d5 when the task at hand becomes clear. Developing pieces in the opening is not enough, as Black you also have to fight for space. Playing successfully hedgehog style positions requires a good amount of skill and a liking for cramped positions few people possess.

In that position I would play the flexible 11...a6 as this move often becomes necessary. 11... cxd4 is still possible which at least will clarify the position. There is also the typical hedgehog plan of playing Rfe8, g6, Bf8 and Bg7 but that's not exactly thrilling.

Verbeena
Nerwal wrote:

Black already got itself in a bit of a trouble for no good reason. With less space and no easy, active plan, Black stands already slightly worse at least in practice. I would recommend to be principled and play 8... d5 when the task at hand becomes clear. Developing pieces in the opening is not enough, as Black you also have to fight for space. Playing successfully hedgehog style positions requires a good amount of skill and a liking for cramped positions few people possess.

In that position I would play the flexible 11...a6 as this move often becomes necessary. 11... cxd4 is still possible which at least will clarify the position. There is also the typical hedgehog plan of playing Rfe8, g6, Bf8 and Bg7 but that's not exactly thrilling.

You are on to something. After i checked with the engine, it suggested no less than 6 times that the move d5 or cxd4 was best during the first 10 moves of the game!! Clearly i lack understanding regarding when to grab space with the pawns, that wasn't even on my mental evaluation list during the opening... I really don't like cramped positions btw.

Verbeena
ArtNJ wrote:

Beginners make useless moves like a6 h6 way too often -- beginners have a problem overusing waiting moves, but here, waiting is a good idea.

How did you come up with the conclusion that waiting is a good idea in this position? I am not saying that it is wrong, i just want to know how your mental analysis went so that i can learn to judge for myself when it is a good idea to wait and when to march forward. Like you said, moving the a or h pawn one step is typical beginner moves, that's why i didn't play a6 until much later in the game, when i had a clear purpose of advancing the b-pawn next.

 

Nerwal

After i checked with the engine, it suggested no less than 6 times that the move d5 or cxd4 was best during the first 10 moves of the game!!

It's also because with 7. d5 or 8. d5 White can transpose into a Benoni which computers hate and is also objectively not great in this form, although it has been played many times, even by strong players (results were not great but not catastrophic either).

Nerwal
kaukasar a écrit :
Nerwal wrote:

Black already got itself in a bit of a trouble for no good reason. With less space and no easy, active plan, Black stands already slightly worse at least in practice. I would recommend to be principled and play 8... d5 when the task at hand becomes clear. Developing pieces in the opening is not enough, as Black you also have to fight for space. Playing successfully hedgehog style positions requires a good amount of skill and a liking for cramped positions few people possess.

In that position I would play the flexible 11...a6 as this move often becomes necessary. 11... cxd4 is still possible which at least will clarify the position. There is also the typical hedgehog plan of playing Rfe8, g6, Bf8 and Bg7 but that's not exactly thrilling.

You are on to something. After i checked with the engine, it suggested no less than 6 times that the move d5 or cxd4 was best during the first 10 moves of the game!! Clearly i lack understanding regarding when to grab space with the pawns, that wasn't even on my mental evaluation list during the opening... I really don't like cramped positions btw.

 

It's also because with 7. d5 or 8. d5 White can transpose into a Benoni which computers hate and is also objectively not great in this form, although it has been played many times, even by strong players (results were not great but not catastrophic either).

Nicator65

"How do you find a good move in calm positions where there are no "obvious" moves to play?"

By considering how each side may get or develop active play.

Besides, it's not that you finish your development and only then which plan to follow. Plans are often dictated by the pawn structures, so the moment you advance your pawns you're narrowing your choices. Be as it may, your piece disposition (meaning where you develop them) should reflect those choices.

In the concrete position you got, White main plans involve Pe3–e4–e5, driving away Black's Knight and launching a kingside attack supported by Bishops and, eventually, by weakening Black's castle with a pawn push. An alternative plan for White goes with Pd4–d5, seizing central space, which after ...Pe6xd5 Pc4xd5 can evolve into Pf2–f4 and Pe3–e4–e5. As Black doesn't have superiority in any sector, his choices are limited to opposing White's ideas with flexibility. In this case, to open files in the center to prevent the white pieces to go undisturbed into a central push or a kingside attack.

As a side note, check the Fine–Dake game in this article.

TrainerMeow
kaukasar wrote:
ArtNJ wrote:

Beginners make useless moves like a6 h6 way too often -- beginners have a problem overusing waiting moves, but here, waiting is a good idea.

How did you come up with the conclusion that waiting is a good idea in this position? I am not saying that it is wrong, i just want to know how your mental analysis went so that i can learn to judge for myself when it is a good idea to wait and when to march forward. Like you said, moving the a or h pawn one step is typical beginner moves, that's why i didn't play a6 until much later in the game, when i had a clear purpose of advancing the b-pawn next.

 

I'll try my best:

I don't find any of the active options attractive. White has 3 pieces aiming at b5 while black has none. 11...e5 weakens d5 and f5 for little in return. 11...cxd4 12. exd4 only clears the e-file for white. The ...d5 idea is possible, but I'd rather play it only after improving my pieces on the 7th. Those guys may feel loose after the position opens up.

Therefore I should take the waiting strategy. That doesn't mean I'll just shuffle my king between g8 and h8, though. The waiting strategy, as I understand it, is to improve your position to the maximum and to get prepared for big changes. The other player may get impatient and start to play actively; you can also strike yourself when an opportunity emerges.

So how should I wait? I don't think black has already got his pieces on the best possible squares. The queen on c7 is slightly vulnerable to future pressure along the c-file, so I want to put her on b8 or even a8. This is the main idea (which will be easier to find if you have experience in the Hedgehog) behind 11...Rac8. Black may as well anticipate the departure of one of the e-pawns and play 11...Rfe8.

Other waiting moves makes less sense to me. The rooks are the only pieces that hasn't come to the central battlefield so I should get them there. I don't feel like putting a rook on d8 because it encourages white to play d5 (after something like Rfd1, Rac1 and Bb1), simultaneously blocking the b7-bishop and the d-file.

 

nighteyes1234

Playing someone 400 pts higher

No idea what the middle game plan is of the opening

Disaster is ahead.

Hope that white makes an error...I dont know.

WSama

Quiet positions are good for training and practice. A real game should avoid these or be prepared to settle on a draw.

That said, it happens all the time. My method is to begin playing for the endgame. It can reinstate a sense of purpose, making things fun again.

WSama

Black is too passive. White already has some prospects on h7 and g7, while black's a8-h1 diagonal seems like it might end up blocked somewhere down the road.

The bishop on e7 is inactive and looking at all the wrong squares.

The pieces also seem to be out of sync with each other (perhaps for both sides). There's not much team work in sight.

Black's pieces are really blocking each other.

Black has also been blocked off from exploiting white's weak squares (color complexes - which knights thrive on). The rooks have been connected but the other pieces are blocking most of the files

This is essentially a bad starting position for black, and black must first recognize that. Black is safe, the game just started, don't think too far ahead or you'll probably defeat yourself. It's time to begin fixing the position.

WSama

As for what move to make, I'm on the same ship as you guys, I have no clue 😅. Just cleaning the sails here...

IMKeto

A frustrating position to try and develop a game plan.  Not a lot going on.  So...we work with what we have.  Their are 2 types of middlegame ideas i use.

1. Scan the 3rd, and 4th (5th and 6th if your white) ranks looking for weak pawns, and weak squares.  These are your targets to attack.  In the case of multiple targets?  The closer to the center, the better.

In this case the only "weakness" is the c3 square.  Not much help.

2. Divide the board into 3 parts:  Queenside, Middle, Kingside.  Compare the following:

Material.

Space.

Weakness(es)

Kingside:

White has a very slight space advantage due to the pawn on h3.

Material is even.

Neither side has any weaknesses.

Middle:

White has a space advantage due to his center pawn on d4 being farther advanced than blacks center pawns.

Material is even.

No weaknesses to speak of, with the possible exception of the d6 pawn becoming a target at some point.

Queenside:

Pawn structures are symmetrical.  No advantage to either side.

Material is even.

The only potential weaknesses are the c3, and c6 squares. 

 

Like i said.  A frustrating position to try and come up a game plan with.  With all of that being considered, I would play 11...Rfd8 with the idea of defending the d6 pawn, the d-file has possibilities of opening at some point. 

congrandolor

In that position I dream with putting the rook on c8, then go with my queen to a8 to put pressure in the a8-h1  diagonal, like in the Hedgehog, but that may be too slow. Maybe cxd4 first, then a6, going into a proper hedgehog, and only then Rac8-Qb8-Qa8. I didn´t check it with the engine so it is possible that my plan has some tactical refutation though.

congrandolor
congrandolor wrote:

In that position I dream with putting the rook on c8, then go with my queen to a8 to put pressure in the a8-h1  diagonal, like in the Hedgehog, but that may be too slow. Maybe cxd4 first, then a6, going into a proper hedgehog, and only then Rac8-Qb8-Qa8. I didn´t check it with the engine so it is possible that my plan has some tactical refutation though.

yeah, cxd4 white retakes with the pawn then goes d5 closing the diagonal (as you can´t go exd5 because your e7 bishop is hanging). So, forgot what I said and go Re8, protecting your hanging piece

Uhohspaghettio1

How are all your pieces "developed to good squares" when your rooks are still on their original squares after castling?! Were you absent that time they talked about developing rooks? The rooks should be on the squares where you think there will be open or semi-open files, or your pawns may need to be protected.  

Other than that, if in the unlikely event you do achieve the "perfect squares", it is fine to do nothing to improve the position especially if you are black playing someone rated a lot higher. There is no "waste of time" as you're not losing your position if your pieces and pawn formation are already on their best squares are you? The race is in getting to those squares, once you have them occupied you are fine.  

A perfectly played game of chess is naturally a draw. It follows that all attacks are inherently unsound. So wait for your opponent to start off on an attack and be ready to respond to it and exploit the weaknesses he has left behind. You are under no obligation as a black player against a much higher rated opponent to start an attack. Being gung ho in blitz on chess.com is all well and good, but your results will be better if you play more patiently and wait for your opponent to get tired of it and do something foolish. In reality it's fairly rare for the theme to pop up though as usually it's chasing or improving from start to finish. 

MorphysMayhem

I think you should read the following books-

1. simple chess -Stean

2. modern chess strategy - Pachman

3. the middlegame in chess -knosko-borovsky

4. how to reassess your chess -Silman

 

Your views on what to look for and how to evaluate are shallow and naive. I truly mean no offense my friend. They are just too simple.

RussBell

The Principle of Maximum Usefulness...
http://www.mark-weeks.com/aboutcom/aa06b18.htm

Verbeena

Thank you all for your replies. Some of you have wrote extensive analysis of the position features and plans that both side should be making, which is a lot more than what i saw during the game. I obviously have a lot to learn before i am able to see all the subtleties. If i were white i would probably struggle just as much in finding appropriate moves to play, after the opening phase is complete and i have made all the "natural" (aka simple) moves.

My game plans usually revolve around exploiting mistakes made by my opponent. This guy didn't make any...

Morphys-Revenge wrote:

Your views on what to look for and how to evaluate are shallow and naive. I truly mean no offense my friend. They are just too simple.

Thank you for an honest reflection, i gives me extra motivation to improve happy.png

WSama wrote:

As for what move to make, I'm on the same ship as you guys, I have no clue 😅. 

Finding the exact move is not important, i am interested in improving the thought process of finding the moves and understand the positional features. happy.png

IMBacon wrote:

A frustrating position to try and develop a game plan.  Not a lot going on.  So...we work with what we have.  Their are 2 types of middlegame ideas i use.

1. Scan the 3rd, and 4th (5th and 6th if your white) ranks looking for weak pawns, and weak squares.  These are your targets to attack.  In the case of multiple targets?  The closer to the center, the better.

In this case the only "weakness" is the c3 square.  Not much help.

2. Divide the board into 3 parts:  Queenside, Middle, Kingside.  Compare the following:

Material.

Space.

Weakness(es)

I love step-by-step instructions that i can apply generally, just like asking for my opponents reply before making any move and consider checks, captures and threats. I'll make sure to remember doing this next time i end up in a quiet position in search of a plan, although i still need to understand the implications of the positional facts that i discover in order to find proper moves to play.

Uhohspaghettio1 wrote:

How are all your pieces "developed to good squares" when your rooks are still on their original squares after castling?! Were you absent that time they talked about developing rooks? The rooks should be on the squares where you think there will be open or semi-open files, or your pawns may need to be protected.  

Other than that, if in the unlikely event you do achieve the "perfect squares", it is fine to do nothing to improve the position especially if you are black playing someone rated a lot higher. There is no "waste of time" as you're not losing your position if your pieces and pawn formation are already on their best squares are you? The race is in getting to those squares, once you have them occupied you are fine.  

A perfectly played game of chess is naturally a draw. It follows that all attacks are inherently unsound. So wait for your opponent to start off on an attack and be ready to respond to it and exploit the weaknesses he has left behind. You are under no obligation as a black player against a much higher rated opponent to start an attack. Being gung ho in blitz on chess.com is all well and good, but your results will be better if you play more patiently and wait for your opponent to get tired of it and do something foolish. In reality it's fairly rare for the theme to pop up though as usually it's chasing or improving from start to finish. 

The reason i didn't move the rooks was because there were no obvious files to put them on and i couldn't predict where they would be more useful. A very general idea is to put them on d & e files to centralize, but i rather play with a concrete idea in mind.

I avoided waiting moves because i have experience from other games where both sides reached solid positions and i couldn't find any good attacking moves without weakening my position, so i just shuffled my pieces around while my opponent made slow but steady progress and eventually my position collapsed.

As several people has mentioned, a useful waiting move would be appropriate here. Knowing when to attack and when to play more quiet is a skill i have to develop.

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