Equal positions are so hard to play!

Yeah, those are probably the hardest to play. For me too at least. Especially when all the pieces look good, but there's seemingly nothing to do with them. Not sure I can help much.

There are all types of equal positions though. Some are a lot more dynamic than that, and maybe there are plans but you're having trouble weighing the pros vs the cons? I don't know. An example position would help.

Again, not sure this will help, but one thing is making mini plans to very slightly increase things like mobility or space. No grand idea to work towards for 20 moves, just something simple like the queen controls a few more squares on c4 than c3... something like that. Basically small improvements while waiting around. Don't be afraid to do nothing because...

If you have trouble maintaining the balance, I guess I'd say disallow yourself from playing "ugly" moves. Imagine some GM questioning your move after the game. Are you going to nod and say "I know, I know, but I wasn't sure what to do" or would you honestly be able to say you didn't see anything negative about it?

Well, certainly you should avoid moves that are tactical mistakes - in some equal positions, very difficult for even masters, but not in most positions. So that's a start.

The second part about playing equal, but somewhat complex positions is that your opponent may have lines that are not so "forcing", but that end up giving him/her a really nice plan or positional plus. This happens pretty often in my games against strong opposition actually. 

I understand though - in an equal position, you're always trying to gain the advantage, and sometimes you may overpush or really try too hard to do that. 

Playing equal positions well is the problem of many masters, by the way!

Make position more boring and wait for opponent to fall asleep

First, there are no perfectly equal positions.  The first task is to find a  move  that comes as close to equalizing as possible.  Keeping  in mind that there are no perfectly equal positions.

If you are in an  opening and variation that you know.  Then the task is simplified.  Just use recall to remember the move(s) that are in your memory for the position.  Also, if there is more than one viable continuation, remember what the continuation(s) lead to.  Select from more than one continuation based on what you know about your opponent.

If you are in an opening and variation you don't know, then the task becomes more  time consuming.  Examine first the pawn structure. Are there any pawn majorities  on the kingside or the queenside. Are there any half open or open files in the position and which side is in control.  Look for where the pawn break(s) are or will soon be.  Examine the position for moves that will simultaneously prepare an advantageous pawn break for your color, and at the same time thwart moves that enable advantageous pawn breaks for the other side if possible.  Position your Rs on  the  files behind  the pawn break(s).  As you well know Rs are meekly dependent on pawn levers (pawn break(s)) to develop attacking chances on the  half open or open file.  And the eventual lateral attacks along the 7th or 8th  ranks.  If the pawn structure is closed keep your Ns.  Also, if  the pawn center is locked up, look for  flank attacks, especially against the enemy K.  Flank attacks are much more likely to succeed when the center is locked up because that is where the defender has to counterattack in order to stop or thwart the flank attack.  If the pawn structure is open then keep your Bs. 

I've done this... but in positions where I'm clearly worse and lower on the clock 

Instead of trying to defend by creating complications, since I'm low on the clock, sometimes I'll just shuffle around trying to provoke them. It's worked a few times and, thanks to blunders of course, I've come back and won.

oh yeah.  while you are doing all those things above.   Don't forget to scan the position for tactical shots.   Especially check  for backward defenses of pawns and pieces before making an otherwise safe looking move.

Finally,  before making  move.  Step away from the table.  Take a short stroll of tournament hall and scan  other games being played.  Then return  to your table and scan the position to see if you have a different perspective.  Only then  make your move.

Urk,

Are you referring to openings, middlegames, or other? Here are a few late opening and middlegame tips that might help, especially regarding piece placement and default plans:

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(p. 332)

If you can't find a plan, think which of your pieces

is placed the worst and find how you can improve

its position. Such an approach is likely to lead you

to the right plan, and the right move.

Alburt, Lev, and Sam Palatnik. 2010. Chess Strategy for the Tournament Player, 3rd, Revised Edition. New York, New York: Chess Information and Research Center.

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(p. 187)

Rules for middlegame attacking

A few generalizations can be made about the middlegame, as long as you

understand that every position is unique and that exceptions are lurking out

there like fleas just waiting to bite you in the ankle. The following are a few of

the generalizations.

Attack if you control the center

If you attack without controlling the center, you are exposed to a counter-attack

in the center and your forces may be split.

Meet a flank attack with action in the center

If your opponent attacks on either side of the board, your attack in the center

divides your opponent's forces and conquers them.

Be prepared to develop quickly to any area

Your rapid deployment of pieces to one area of the board may be decisive if

your opponent can't respond as rapidly.

Place queens in front of bishops and behind rooks during an attack

The bishop is not powerful enough to lead an attack, and the queen is too

powerful to risk, if the rook can do the dirty work in her place.

(p. 188)

Don't place your knights on the sides of the board

Knights control too few squares from the side of the board, and their attacking

power is severely reduced.

Attack in the case of opposite-colored bishops

Because opposite-colored bishops can't be exchanged for one another or

control the same squares, the attacker has what sometimes amounts to an

extra piece.

Exchange pieces to help your defense

You have fewer pieces to trip over one another if you exchange pieces, and the

attacker has fewer pieces to threaten you with.

Put the rooks on open files (and the same file)

Putting the rooks on an open file and then on the same file (which is called

doubling) whenever possible is helpful. Other pieces can zigzag their way into

enemy territory. The rook requires an open file in order to successfully invade.

Two rooks acting together can control more territory than one alone.

Put rooks on the seventh rank

Rooks on the seventh rank can usually attack opponent's [sic] pawns that have

remained on their original squares; sometimes the rooks can trap the 

opponent's king to the back rank.

Advance pawns to open lines

The opening is the time to develop your pieces [sic] not to waste time with excessive

pawn moves. Conversely, in the middlegame the pieces are already developed;

it may then be appropriate to make additional pawn moves in order to open

lines or create weaknesses in your opponents [sic] position.

Always guard against a counter-attack

Never leave your king exposed! Chess players very often spoil promising

positions in their zeal to attack because they forget to first take a few small

precautions. Sometimes it's proper to make a move or two to safeguard your

own king's position and only then resume your more aggressive pursuits.

Use knights in closed positions and bishops in open ones

Bishops need open lines in order to profit from their long-range attacking

abilities. Knights are more effective in skirmishes at close quarters, and closed

positions are more apt to produce that sort of skirmish.

 ----------

(p. 189)

Attack where you control more space

If you attack when you control more space, you have more room to maneu-

ver your pieces, an your opponent has less. You then have more squares to

choose from when posting your pieces and you may be able to swiftly shift your

pieces from one point of attack to another while the defender struggles to meet

your threats.

Eade, James. 1996. Chess For Dummies. Foster City, CA: IDG Books Worldwide, Inc.

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(p. 8)

   The Other Side: Helping Him Err

   To play superior chess you need a realistic attitude toward

error. This involves something of a paradox: you should play as

if your opponent will make error-free moves. But you should give

him the opportunity to make errors.

   There is a distinct temptation to make trappy moves, that is,

moves that are of questionable value but which set traps for the

enemy. This is a bad habit to get into, no matter how often it

succeeds. If you expect to improve in chess, you'll eventually

reach the level of skill where trappy moves are recognized in-

stantly for what they are.

   But there is another lesson for the improving player to learn.

Too many inexperienced players try to overwhelm the enemy.

They never miss an opportunity to make a threat or press an

attack. And when they face equally inexperienced opponents,

more often than not the threats and attacks will be poorly han-

dled. But when they meet more experienced players they find

that forcing the tempo of play actually eases the task of defense

by their opponents.

   Why? Because players usually err when faced with a choice of

reasonable alternatives. If there is very little choice--if your

opponent can choose between meeting your threat or getting

mate in one move--there isn't much room for mistake.

   Anatoly Karpov, the current world champion, never fails to

give his opponents enough rope for their own hanging. He rarely

forces the action from an early point in the game on. Instead, he

prefers to overwhelm his foes with choices, knowing that only the

very best players will pass the test.

(p. 69)

   Wrong Rook

   Another special case involves the last pieces to be positioned

for the middlegame. The rooks don't seem to do much until the

later portions of the contest. Yet their placement has a lot to do

with planning and long-term strategy; misplacing them will, at

minimum, cost time.

   When there are two open files and you have two rooks, it

usually doesn't take much thought to determine where your

heavy pieces belong (one on each file or doubled on one file). But

when you have three files, or one open file and two half-open files

(open only from your end), or some other situation, the choices

become harder. The basic rule is to use the rooks where they can

be the most flexible.

Soltis, Andrew. 1979. Catalog of Chess Mistakes. New York: David McKay Company, Inc.

Here's a position I made up, black to move. I tried to make it equal, and the engine seem to agree. I also tried to make the piece placement and pawn structure a little annoying for finding a plan easily.

I also have an intended solution in mind, that an engine doesn't show, so no help there. My solution isn't bad though, the engine verifies it's (more or less) as good as anything else black has.

i most enjoy equal positions, if you study Carlsen's games you could learn how to make something out of nothing, bring the magic into your chess.

Yeah, quickly going down the mainline my engine wants for that position it looks like a quick draw. I like my idea to play for a win

It's a little unfair to claim there's 1 solution. I think the engine shows like... 10 moves are all equal lol.

But I thought it might be good for this topic, if this is the sort of thing you're talking about.

Petrosian liked to do the same thing...

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(p. 27)

36 . . .   N-N1?

   Panicking and giving him the opportunity he's been waiting for

to sneak P-QN4 in at a moment when Black can't counter with

. . .PxP and . . . R-QR1. Petrosian likes to play cat-and-

mouse, hoping that his opponents will go wrong in the absence of a

direct threat. The amazing thing is--they usually do! Witness a

case in point. I should have just ignored his "threat" with, say,

36. . .R-R1; 37 B-R5, R-QB1; 38 R-K1, K-B3; and

if 39 N-K6, P-B3.

Fischer, Bobby. 1969. My 60 Memorable Games. New York: Simon and Schuster.