How to avoid blundering in completely won positions?

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MikhailKasparov

I've lost 100 rating points recently and I've noticed a trend with several games ending like these:

Note - Qf3 was a mouseslip, meant to play Qg4+, but I was lost already regardless.
 

Has anyone else encountered a similar problem and what are some suggestions to prevent losses like these?

hrarray
Take your time
MikhailKasparov

I took your advice. When I sensed a blunder coming. I instead sat on my hands and studied the position as best I could. When my clock ran out, analysis shows my advantage remained intact until the end. I still lost the game, but stopped the blunder.

The next step for me is when I have a clearly winning position and my opponent isn't resigning, to offer a draw. That way I can't lose.

Chuck639
MikhailKasparov wrote:

I took your advice. When I sensed a blunder coming. I instead sat on my hands and studied the position as best I could. When my clock ran out, analysis shows my advantage remained intact until the end. I still lost the game, but stopped the blunder.

The next step for me is when I have a clearly winning position and my opponent isn't resigning, to offer a draw. That way I can't lose.

Why not play 15/10?

hrarray
That position is actually pretty tricky you have to be careful not to get back ranked or forked by the queen
licketySplitAUS
What’s the advantage with 15/10?
SwordFZ
MikhailKasparov wrote:

I've lost 100 rating points recently and I've noticed a trend with several games ending like these:

Note - Qf3 was a mouseslip, meant to play Qg4+, but I was lost already regardless.
 

Has anyone else encountered a similar problem and what are some suggestions to prevent losses like these?

There is sadly no way to win winning positions sadly

Nilsmaln
licketySplitAUS wrote:
What’s the advantage with 15/10?


More time to ponder moves and play slower.

MikhailKasparov
Chuck639 wrote:
MikhailKasparov wrote:

I took your advice. When I sensed a blunder coming. I instead sat on my hands and studied the position as best I could. When my clock ran out, analysis shows my advantage remained intact until the end. I still lost the game, but stopped the blunder.

The next step for me is when I have a clearly winning position and my opponent isn't resigning, to offer a draw. That way I can't lose.

Why not play 15/10?

I'm planning to switch to 15/10 once I reach 2000 rating and my opponents become stronger. Most opponents I currently face are not on my level and I overwhelm them utnil the end of the game when I blunder.

Chuck639
licketySplitAUS wrote:
What’s the advantage with 15/10?

You get 10 seconds added for every move you make which enables you to convert winning positions or hold a draw instead of being flagged in 10/0 scenarios.

You also start with 15 minutes flat instead of 10.

The extra time you can use to calculate deeper or extra lines and blunder check, being that most blunders are rooted to rushing or not seeing them.

MikhailKasparov

I recently resigned a winning position, without even waiting for my opponent to move. I thought I had just blundered to ...Ng3



hrarray
?ng3 and then just move your rook
Nilsmaln

7. ... Bh6 without following up with Bxg7 looks horrendous. Strategically, this was a pointless move.

What were you trying to accomplish by parking your Dark-coloured Bishop in that corner, away from the h2-b8 diagonal where it controlled e5? Where you just hoping Black would kindly trade his fianchettoed Bishop, for nothing? It should your first question before any move: what's my objective here? What am I trying to accomplish? Is it worth a move?

If you decide to go for Bh6, be fully committed and remove that fianchetto once and for all. That would have been fine, with the added benefit that your Queen would no longer be tasked to defend that Bishop. Otherwise, leave it there on f4, where It actually allowed you to pile up over the e5 square, right at the center.

Also... finish your development before going on the pawn offensive. Your Bishop and Knight in the back do nothing but obstruct your Rooks. Plus, your light Bishop is actually a very good bishop - if you use it! Your instinct was correct to go for the Queen-side attack... but these underdeveloped pieces are in the way, while Black is fully mobilized.

Oh, and from my viewpoint ... Ng3 is actually not bad at all for you, but for him! After Rh3 the Knight has nowhere to go but with Nxf1, answered by Rxf1. Anywhere else, Black loses material.

Yes, you lose a Bishop (that was doing nothing anyway), while Black throws away a Knight he took several tempos to move, and only for a mere equal trade. Then, the plan would be to find a way to move that remaining Knight away from the g1 square (for example, to remove that Black forward outpost on d4, then push that f3 pawn backed by your Queen and Rook, then followed by Rh1, and you'd have a scary battery fully mobilized on that h-file, with your Queen fully ready to join in the fun on the Queen-side.

MikhailKasparov
Nilsmaln wrote:

7. ... Bh6 without following up with Bxg7 looks horrendous. This is a pointless move.

What were you trying to accomplish by parking your Dark-coloured Bishop in that corner, away from the h2-b8 diagonal where it controlled e5? Where you just hoping Black would kindly trade his fianchettoed Bishop, for nothing? It should your first question before any move: what's my objective here? What am I trying to accomplish? Is it worth a move?

If you decide to go for Bh6, be fully committed and remove that fianchetto once and for all. That would have been fine, with the added benefit that your Queen would no longer be tasked to defend that Bishop. Otherwise, leave it there on f4, where It actually allowed you to pile up over the e5 square, right at the center.

Also... finish your development before going on the pawn offensive. Your Bishop and Knight in the back do nothing but obstruct your Rooks. Plus, your light Bishop is actually a very good bishop - if you use it! Your instinct was correct to go for the Queen-side attack... but these underdeveloped pieces are in the way, while Black is fully mobilized.

Oh, and from my viewpoint ... Ng3 is actually not that bad at all for you: after, Rh3 the Knight has nowhere to go but with Nxf1, answered by Rxf1. Anywhere else, Black loses material.

Yes, you lose a Bishop (that was doing nothing anyway), while Black throws away a Knight he took several tempos to move, and only for a mere equal trade. Then, the plan would be to find a way to move that remaining Knight away from the g1 square, followed by Rh1, and you'd have a nice battery fully mobilized on that h-file.

There are a lot of elements to the position that you are overlooking.

The bishop on g7 is pinned to the rook. It cannot move. Therefore taking immediately is not necessary. In fact, taking immediately is a mistake because at a later time White can possibly follow up with Qh6+ (supported by the Rh1). That obviously is impossible until the h-file is cleared of pawns.

Moving the g1 knight and f1 bishop is unnecessary. They are constrained by the pawns and would actually get in the way of other pieces. For example the queen has a clear path to h1 and the rook has a clear path to h7, because of those pieces not having moved. In fact the knight is defending the f3 pawn which is critical to sustaining the kingside attack. You can look at this game with Stockfish and it's +1.9 at depth 22 at the time I resigned. In fact the best move is giving up the knight for two pawns with Nxf3 Nxf3 Bxg4. The move I was concerned about, Ng3, is +3.0.

You are correct that I panic-resigned and missed that not only does Rh3 maintain the advantage, but Bxg7 Nxh1 Bxf8 Qxf8 Qh2 wins a piece.

What I suggest is that you learn about some of the different tactical and positional motifs of different openings rather than always apply the same general principals (develop all your pieces, control e5 square, etc). A closed position is often treated very differently than an open or symmetrical position.

Nilsmaln
Hey, I am not the one resigning when ahead and giving victories for free. Your pieces are uncoordinated and do nothing. It might be breakeven for Stockfish but that Black Knight blundered not withstanding, Black has the advantage on the board.

Also after Black moves his Rook to Re8… what pin do you have? Poof, it disappeared. Meanwhile, your Bishop seats there accomplishing… what exactly?
MikhailKasparov
Nilsmaln wrote:
Hey, I am not the one resigning when ahead and giving victories for free. Your pieces are uncoordinated and do nothing. It might be breakeven for Stockfish but that Black Knight blundered not withstanding, Black has the advantage on the board.

Also after Black moves his Rook to Re8… what pin do you have? Poof, it disappeared. Meanwhile, your Bishop seats there accomplishing… what exactly?

Re8 would be a wasted move as it moves the rook to a worse square. So it would actually lose two moves as it would have to move back to f8 later. Trading bishops after Black wastes at least one move is better than your suggestion of trading them immediately.

I see you've only played 15 games on Chess.com and have a rating below 1000. I suggest you get a bit more experience and then reconsider some of your observations. I also find it amusing that in one post you said I was ahead, but also that Black has the advantage. While also misreading the Stockfish evaluation of +1.9 based with Black's best move to sacrifice a knight.

fuguooo

I know I'm late but I always do this currently. Recently I came back to chess and started climbing rating from 300 to where I am now and im literally winning. Whether by pieces or position. Well for the past 3 games by pieces. Then I blunder a piece and end up losing. I just get scared because of the time limit I have. It's so annoying. I just lost 3 games in a row that I was winning because of this blundering.

DenialOfNature

drink a big glass of strawberry milk and get out of the house, scream at elevator shaft three times then go back in and play.

dude.. if you keep blundering then just double-triple check your moves.. and try not to get tunnelvisioned with your plans grin.png

MikhailKasparov

I still blunder quite a bit but somehow my rating has climbed up to near all-time high level at 2036 (all-time high is 2043).

foolish415

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