Why the hell can I not play slow chess?

If I play slow chess I make blunders. The longer I look at a position the more I forget what is happening the worse my thinking becomes the more convoluted my thought process and then at the last moment I grow impatient I play on instinct and the move is a blunder. I can only rationally play blitz. My coach has repeated to me over and over again not to play less than 15 mins games but I just can't help it. 

 

Any advice would be apprecitaed.

I looked at your last two losses and wonder why you resigned so early in both.  

 

You're right. Maybe Icould have played on. But I felt like Iwould struggle playing this posiiton a pawn down.

This one too. Why resign?

 

In my experience, , most people here on Chess.com will play on down one or two pawns. 

Yet, you just resign.

This one is more clear cut. I am a pawn down with the worse pawn structure. Black's bishop is good and the position is open with no good outposts for my knight. It's resignable.

Not against a 1463 rated player.

haha no i thought he will butcher me

Good players don't resign just because they have a difficult position

giulio this is not a difficult position. what do i do after the knight recaptures on d4 and black puts a rook on d8. that 's the second pawn down. what kind of a plan would i even make.

I belive that if Rad8 then you have Nb5 and if Rfd8 then you can play Nb3 because the pawn on f7 is hanging too.

yeah you're right. but i'mstill a pawn down and no chances of winning.

but Rad8 then Nb5 then c6 then if Nxa7 then Ra8 back and the N is trapped

pdve wrote: If I play slow chess I make blunders. The longer I look at a position the more I forget what is happening So how do you think? In coherent sentences? Do you have a system? I try to follow the Dan Heisman rules: 1. What is ALL the things his move did for the postition? 2. Is he checking, capturing or threatening me? 3. Can he do 2) on his next move? 4. Can I do 2) on my next move? 5. What is my best move? 6. Do I have any other best move? 7. What is ALL the things my best move will do to the postition? 8. Is my best move safe? Then move and repeat. You have time for this in slow chess. I find if I work hard this way, an additional benefit might be that I notice things about the postition better as well. 'That bishop move left this diagonal, can I exploit it?' etc. For simple players like me (FIDE 1600 app) this works quite well.

I think if one tries to think in sentences you will get tired within 60 seconds or so. So I don't hae a system of thinking. I think of whatever comes into my head. Some people say one should hve a system of thinking(for slow chess) but I don't know how that would work. Like I read a bit of Silman and again I think that if someone starts articulating their thoughts in that manner then they would get tired or distracted or something. Have you read Willy Hendrik's book Move First think Later The Entire point of that book is that chess didactics is wrong and that the only way to improve your game is to expose yourself to chess thery and practice positions.

 I just played a game with a a whole bishop down right out of the opening, and tried to complicate things, maki difficult to my opponent to find the right answer. I got the figure back and the rest of the game was full of inaccuracies, the engine switching from 1+ or more to 1- or less, and this until the last three moves. You should fight, regard the minus material as sacrifice. The opponent will perhaps relax, and at this moment you can find a nice combination to make a draw or perhaps even win. Don't regard the worst position as a signal that the adversary will crush you, but as a possible example how a hungry wolf will fight back, having nothing to lose. No fear, just joy and uncompromising will to make the best out of a difficult situation. Of course you will probably lose most of these games, but with early resignation you will not have opportunities to learn that there is still a lot of life in bad positions.

also, what is FIDE 1600 app.

Thanks for these tips. They will surely help me too.

People who resign to early are quitters

Hendrik has a lot of good points. However, we amateurs do not have much time or are not willing to invest the time needed to improve. Chess books can help amateurs to focus on some aspects of the game, like put the rooks on open lines, or, later, when it is a mistake to put rook on open lines. In other words: books will teach us to follow some rules, and later will teach us when the rules should not be follow. For example, we can learn to attack a pinned piece twice, and this will be in most cases good, but sometimes you want to give the material and go for a passed pawn. Good authors can help to find nice examples to improve your perception about the game. Your problem is that you are probably playing mostly blitz, so you will begin to play better slower chess when you stop with blitz, at least for a couple of months, and begin to play slow chess. If your problem is impatience, try first daily chess, something like 50 to 100 games simulataneously, and try not to blitz in these games. You can play fast when you know exactly what you are doing, but you take a lot of time in complex situations. With the time you can reduce the number the games and reduce the time for each move, until you reach the point where you play normal slow chess. 

I see many, many posts on here from players who wish only to play blitz and don't care to play longer games. In terms of Chess progression, Blitz is a pastime for people who can already play Chess, it's not a method for improving your Chess play or understanding. Naka can Blitz games all day long and be the best in the World at it but he can already play Chess and he's just Blitzing for fun.

If you wish to improve your Chess then learn to focus on playing it; this requires hard thinking and lots of it. Blitz is the equivalent of doing the quick crossword when you don't have time to solve the cryptic one.