This is the kind of stuff you're going to have to figure out for yourself, although other player's may provide useful info.
Ideally you should always be preparing for tnmts by reading chess books and playing "training" or offhand games under tnmt conditions. You should also work out regularly and not just to be in shape for chess tnmts but because it's good for your overall health. As for how much time you should work out and sleep every day, that obviously depends on how much time is available for working out and how much sleep YOU need to feel good.
Without knowing anything about your playing style or preferences I'd suggest you study endgames, middlegames and tactics and try to curb the natural tendency to focus on openings to the exclusion of everything else. Contrary to what some players will tell you ie "Every game has an opening but every game doesn't always have an endgame or even a middlegame" learning basic endgame principles will help you out in all phases of the game.
Hopefully the following will be useful to you:
CHESS OPENING PRINCIPLES by SIX FAMOUS GRANDMASTERS
Lasker's rules for the opening (from Common Sense In Chess)
1. Do not move any pawns in the opening of a game but the King and Queen pawns.
2. Do not move any piece twice in the opening, but put it at once on the right square.
3. Bring out your knights before developing your bishops, especially the Queen's Bishop.
4. Do not pin the adverse King Knight (ie. by Bg5) before your opponent has castled
GM Reuben Fine on the opening:
1. In the initial position White, because of the extra move, has a slight advantage. Consequently:
2. White's problem in the opening is to secure the better position, while...
3. Black's problem is to secure equality.
Fine's rules for the opening
1. Open with either the e-pawn or the d-pawn.
2. Wherever possible, make a good developing move which threatens something or adds to the pressure on the centre.
3. Develop knights before bishops.
4. Pick the most suitable square for a piece and develop it there once and for all.
5. Make one or two pawn moves in the opening, not more.
6. Do not bring your queen out too early.
7. Castle as soon as possible, preferably on the king's side.
8. Play to get control of the centre.
9. Always try to maintain at least one pawn in the centre.
10. Do not sacrifice without a clear and adequate reason, eg.:
* it secures a tangible advantage in development * it deflects the opponent's queen
* it prevents the opponent from castling * it enables a strong attack to be developed
Fine's two last questions to be asked before a move is made:
* How does it affect the centre?
* How does it fit in with the development of my other pieces and pawns?
Nimzovitch's Seven Axioms (from My System)
* Development is to be understood as the strategic advance of the troops toward the frontier line (the line between the fourth and fifth ranks).
* A pawn move must not in itself be regarded as a devloping move, but merely as an aid to development.
* To be ahead in development is the ideal to be aimed for.
* Exchange with resulting gain of tempo.
* Liquidation, with consequent development or disembarrassment.
* The pawn centre must be mobile.
* There is no time for pawn hunting in the opening, except for centre pawns.
Suetin's four principles for advanced players
* The fight for control of the centre
* The striving for the quickest and most active development.
* The creation of conditions that permit early castling.
* The formation of an advantageous pawn structure
GM Hort's 13 rules for all players
* Take advantage of every tempo.
* Develop flexibly!
* Do not make pawn moves without careful planning.
* Begin the game with a centre pawn, and develop the minor pieces so that they influence
the center
* Develop harmoniously! Play with all your pieces
* Do not make aimless moves. Each move must be part of a definite plan.
* Do not be eager for material gain. The fight for time is much more important than the fight for material, especially in open positions.
* A weakening of your own pawns may be accepted only if it is compensated by a more active placement of your pieces.
* With the help of your pawns, try to get an advantage in space and weaken your opponent's pawn position.
* Do not obstruct your pawns by grouping your pieces directly in front of them; pawns and pieces must work together.
* During the first few moves, pay special attention to the vulnerable KB2 square on both sides.
* Remember that the poor placement of even a single piece may destroy the coordination of the other pieces.
* With White, exploit the advantage of having the first move and try to gain the initiative. With Black, try to organize counterplay.
GM Portisch on forming a repertoire:
"Your only task in the opening is to reach a playable middlegame."
SOURCE: http://exeterchessclub.org.uk/content/ten-rules-opening
GM Fine's 15 Basic Endgame Rules (from Basic Chess Endings)
1. |
Doubled, isolated and blockaded Pawns are weak: Avoid them! |
2. |
Passed Pawns should be advanced as rapidly as possible. |
3. |
If you are one or two Pawns ahead, exchange pieces but not Pawns. |
4. |
If you are one or two Pawns behind, exchange Pawns but not pieces. |
5. |
If you have an advantage, do not leave all the Pawns on one side. |
6. |
If you are one Pawn ahead, in 99 cases out of 100 the game is drawn if there are Pawns on only one side of the board. |
7. |
The easiest endings to win are pure Pawn endings. |
8. |
The easiest endings to draw are those with Bishops of opposite colors. |
9. |
The King is a strong piece: Use it! |
10. |
Do not place your Pawns on the color of your Bishop. |
11. |
Bishops are better than Knights in all except blocked Pawn positions. |
12. |
Two Bishops vs. Bishop and Knight constitute a tangible advantage. |
13. |
Passed Pawns should be blockaded by the King; the only piece which is not harmed by watching a Pawn is the Knight. |
14. |
A rook on the seventh rank is sufficient compensation for a Pawn. |
15. |
Rooks belong behind passed Pawns. |
I would like to introuduce myself. I am USCF rated 1808, FIDE 1526, and i am 13 years old. I have a query for all the players in the 1600-2200 range who get good results in tournaments. Other players aver or under this category are also free to reply, provided they have had good results ( like wins against 1600 and above or draws with 1700 and above ) This question i know is a personal one but i would like to have different views. Ok, here is the question :
How do you prepare for a chess tournament? ( Please include time alotted to each phase of the game, sleeping time exercise, etc.) And how much time before a major tournament do you start preparing? This is very important for me please reply ASAP.
Thanks in advance i appreciate you're time.
Regards,
eightsquare